Your Guide to the Wines of Hungary - This Month's Novel Wines Explorer's Club

Welcome to this month's Novel Wines Explorer's Club, the UK's most exciting wine subscription for the curious drinker. Each month, we will introduce you to a new wine region as part of our promise to deliver no two wines the same for a whole year. Not a member yet? Subscribe here.

Looking for an older guide? See all the Explorer's Club guides here.

What's in this month's Explorer's Club?

To start the year we’re visiting the heart of Central Europe to explore one of our favourite and also one of the continent’s most exciting wine regions: Hungary. Known for its rich winemaking heritage that stretches back over a thousand years, Hungary offers a fascinating mix of tradition, innovation, and a treasure trove of unique grape varieties.

Hungary is perhaps best known for its legendary sweet Tokaji Aszú, often called the "Wine of Kings," but there’s also much more to discover. From complex whites like Furmint and Hárslevelű to elegant, spicy reds made from Kékfrankos (Blaufränkisch) and Kadarka, Hungary’s wines are as diverse as the country’s landscapes, from the volcanic soils of Tokaj to the rolling plains of the Great Hungarian Plain.

In this month’s Explorer case, we’ve put together a selection that showcases the spectrum of Hungarian wines. From indigenous grape varieties with ancient roots to modern expressions that push boundaries, these wines tell the story of a vibrant and evolving wine culture.

So, get ready to uncover the magic of Hungary’s vineyards, where history and innovation come together in every bottle. As always, we’re here to answer any questions you have and help you enjoy the journey through this remarkable wine region. Cheers to exploring the wines of Hungary!

To start things off, the St. Donat Csopak Hegybor 2021 is a brilliant expression of Hungary’s Balaton wine region. The family-owned winery celebrated for its commitment to sustainable viticulture and authentic, terroir-driven wines are located on the northern shore of Lake Balaton. St. Donat specializes in showcasing the unique minerality of the volcanic and marl-rich soils of the Csopak appellation.

This wine, made from the Olaszrizling grape (Welschriesling), embodies the essence of the region. It greets you with aromas of green apple, lemon zest, and white flowers, underpinned by a signature saline minerality. On the palate, it is crisp and vibrant, with flavours of citrus, almond, and a subtle herbal note, balanced by lively acidity and a clean, mineral-laden finish.

This versatile wine pairs beautifully with seafood dishes, light pastas, or fresh goat cheese, and it’s also an ideal companion for warm, sunny afternoons. This really is a superb introduction to the elegance and precision of Csopak’s wines, offering a pure and unadulterated taste of Hungary’s iconic Lake Balaton region.

Next we have a wonderful dry expression of Hungary's flagship grape - Furmint. This single vineyard example is from winemaker Sarolta Bárdos, using fruit solely from the stony and organically-farmed Rány vineyard, and is possibly the purest expression of Furmint in Bardos' range. The vines here are around 50-60 years old and offer excellent concentration, albeit low yields. Aromas of pear, white peach and stones show freshness, while the palate is sensual, layered and brimming with peaches and red apples. The finish is long and lively with refreshing acidity. This is a must-try Furmint.

For some contrast and to highlight the versatility of this classic grape we next sample a single varietal Furmint grown on the historic Meszes-Maly vineyard, located on the border of the villages Tokaj and Tarcal. Made in a delicious off-dry style, this wine retains the crisp acidity and mouth-watering notes of apple, honeysuckle and white peach but with a texture that is full and waxy. Wines from Peter Pince are all about the terroir, focusing on showcasing a style that's unique to the microclimate around Tarcal and Tokaj. The result is an array of characterful wines that are all beautifully made.

Our next wine, from leading producer Böjt, is a modern renaissance of quality Bull's Blood, or "Bikaver" as it prefers to be known today. The style is a showcase of the finest red wine blends in Eger, built on the backbone of Kekfrankos, which must make up more than 50% of the blend. Böjt's Bikaver is sourced from old vines on his family's estate in Ostoros, 4km from the city of Eger. Ruby red with aromas of vanilla, violets and berries. Layers of mulberries, dark cherries, liquorice and cocoa over soft tannins and well integrated, lightly smoky oak tones. Get the Goulash ready!

The Heumann 'Blue Secret' is where Hungary meets Bordeaux and is a modern blend from the red wine area, Villany, in the south of the country. Selected from 14-24 year old vines grown on loess and limestone soils and with a proportion of Merlot and Cabernet added to the traditional Kekfrankos, the fruit is carefully ripened and gently crushed. The resulting fruit-forward wine has aromas of red cherries and vanilla with a deep purple colour and notes of smooth blackberries, cherries and plums on the palate. The tannins are soft and gentle with a rather long finish.

We conclude our tour of Hungary with rare treat and a unique style from the Tokaj region.

Szamorodni takes its name from the Polish word 'samorodno' meaning 'as it comes'. It's made from whole bunches that combine the treasured noble rot grapes and also the 'healthy' ones. 

Whereas Tokaji Aszú is made by selecting individual grapes affected by Noble Rot and thus an intensely sweet, full and powerful wine, Tokaji Szamorodni combines those rich characteristics with the freshness and vitality of dry wines. The results are some of the freshest dessert wines we've tasted, without compromising on intensity.

This wine is made from the region's two most important grape varieties: Furmint and Harslevelu. Furmint is known for lending the wines good acidity, depth and rich notes of orchard apples and stone fruits whilst Harslevelu can add honey, floral notes and a round, oily texture. It's aged for a minimum of 2 years and has at least 50g/l residual sugar.