Welcome to this month's Novel Wines Explorer's Club, the UK's most exciting wine subscription for the curious drinker. Each month, we will introduce you to a new wine region as part of our promise to deliver no two wines the same for a whole year. Not a member yet? Subscribe here.
Looking for an older guide? See all the Explorer's Club guides here.
What's in this month's Explorer's Club?
From the ancient buried 'qvevri' cellars of Georgia to the coastal vineyards of Ukraine, this month we explore wines form the Black Sea with it's rich history and variety of climates, cultures and winemaking techniques.
For over 8,000 years, the shores of the Black Sea have been the heartbeat of global viticulture. Long before the celebrated vineyards of France or Italy existed, the ancient civilizations of Georgia, Ukraine, Bulgaria, and Romania were perfecting the art of the vine.
The Black Sea acts as a massive thermal regulator, providing a unique maritime climate that breathes life into indigenous grapes you won’t find anywhere else on Earth. From the high-altitude clay Qvevris of Georgia to the sun-drenched, sandy coastal slopes of Odesa, this region offers a 'mineral fingerprint' that is entirely its own.
By combining ancient traditions with cutting-edge technology, including innovative underwater aging and precision viticulture, winemakers are producing some of the most exciting, award-winning bottles available today.
Shabo Reserve Telti Kuruk 2023, Ukraine
The first step on our journey this month takes us to Ukraine. Shabo are the leading producer of premium wines in Ukraine and wine production has existed in their own sub region of Shabo for thousands of years, Since 2003 the current incarnation of the winery has gone from strength to strength, making a name for themselves with both international grapes and also remarkable indigenous varieties such as this Telti Kuruk.
Native specifically to southern Ukraine, Telti Kuruk (coming from the Ottoman for Fox Tail due to the appearance of the grape clusters) is an aromatic and fresh white with a distinctly mineral character
A crisp and refreshing wine with a pale straw, almost green colour. The nose is aromatic, almost intense with white lilac and rhubarb jam and floral notes which can be found in the palate too. The body is well-rounded with very good structure and a lengthy finish.
Aya Estate 'Colorito' Melnik / Pinot Noir, Bulgaria
In Bulgaria, the variety Melnik (Shiroka Melnishka or 'broad leafed') gives rich, powerful wines with exotic perfume which were famously admired by Winston Churchill. Alongside their wonderful single varietal example, Aya Estate also produce this wine which uses 30% Pinot Noir in the blend to lend a lighter, more fruit driven touch to the overall profile. These grapes are grown near Kavarna on the Black Sea coast where the constant sea breeze ensures a freshness to the fruit. Biodynamic practices are in operation throughout the estate, with the Melnik coming from 50 year old vines in the Sandanski region.
Bright ruby red colour with complex aromas of ripe cherry, herbs, tobacco, and spices. It's a versatile pairing option for charcuterie, roasted meats, or hard cheeses
Chelti Estate Kisi 'Qvevri', Georgia
Chelti Winery are one of Georgia's finest family owned wineries whose wines receive multiple awards each vintage. The history of the winery can be traced back to the last century when the ancestors of the Marianashvili family built their first wine cellars, now, Giorgi and his children Ana and Andria head up the wine-making and operations.
A Qvevri is a traditional Georgian clay vessel where the grapes would be fermented and aged giving a unique texture and array of flavours to the wine. Kisi is one of Georgia's many local grapes and one that produces some of the countries finest amber Qvevri wines.
With refined and complex flavours of dried apricots, mango, marmalade, roasted almonds, figs, chamomile, fresh herbs, saffron, and other spices, this really is a special wine. A great balance of freshness, complexity, and finesse.
Chateau Purcari '1827' Viorica / Muscat Ottonel 2024, Moldova
Whilst Modova is strictly speaking landlocked, Chateau Purcari lies only around 50 miles from Odesa and is practically just down the road from the Shabo vineyards in Ukraine.
Founded in 1827, the winery has collected countless awards during it's near 200 year history and date is remembered here in this range of wines.
The fairly unknown grape variety Viorica took the wine world by storm when Decanter Magazine awarded the 2019 Viorica de Purcari 97pts and declared it 'Best in Show' in 2020. Strangely, Viorica is a crossing of two red grapes: Seibel and Aleatico. Grown on Purcari's estate in Stefan Voda, the Viorica is blended with the highly aromatic Muscat Ottonel to give a highly perfumed wine with floral complexity.
Bright lemon colour with complex aromas of sweet wildflowers, pear and stone fruit. On the palate you find ripe apricot, honey and acacia with a long, rich finish..
Chelti Estate 'Kindzmarauli' 2023, Georgia
Back in Georgia, crafted from the indigenous Saperavi grapes and coming specifically from the Kakheti sub-region, Kindzmarauli is a naturally semi-sweet red made by deliberately halting fermentation early to leave residual sugars which help to give the wine it's unique character.
Wine has been made in the Kindzmarauli region for centuries. The micro-zone sits at the foothills of the Greater Caucasus, where a combination of alluvial soils, warm summers, and excellent drainage create the ideal environment for ripening Saperavi. It also holds official PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) status, which safeguards its authenticity and strict production standards.
Best enjoyed with a slight chill , this is a wonderfully versatile wine which can be enjoyed either on it's own, with dinner, or even some desserts (we think it works brilliantly with dark chocolate..)
A full bodied wine with lots of rich, ripe fruit including dark cherry, cassis, blackberry and plums along with hints of raisins, figs, and prunes
Shabo Estate Merlot, 2022, Ukraine
We complete our journey this month back in Ukraine with Shabo. Having earlier discovered their wonderfully characterful indigenous grape Telti Kuruk we now also see equally skilled interpretation of the international grapes with a lovely Merlot. With tannin levels dialled down the resulting wine is silky smooth, rounded and incredibly moreish. Using only estate grown fruit, the wine is aged in oak for a minimum of 6 months but retains an elegant purity and freshness.
Vibrant aromas of ripe berries (blackberries, blueberries, raspberries, and cherries) combined with subtle oak and spice. On the palate a smooth, rounded texture with soft tannins, balanced acidity, and a fruit-driven finish with just a hint of vanilla and dark chocolate
